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Quality Standards

Quality Standards

Neweys Dry Cleaners has a reputation for high quality and we have achieved this over many years of persistence to our Quality Standards. It is based on this statement “If you wouldn’t wear or accept the garment in that condition then don’t expect the customer to”. This should be kept in mind when dealing with every order.

 

Dry Cleaning Quality Standards

Most of the dry-cleaning quality standards are to do with the finishing and appearance of the garment. We have developed easy to read posters for the main types of garments that easily explain these.

Apart from these the most important quality standard that we adopt is that all remaining stains on a garment should be addressed by a stain ticket that explains the stain removal result and what can or cannot be done going forward.

If a garment still has a stain and no explanation then it must be sent back to the factory for inspection.

 

Jacket Finishing Quality Standards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pants Quality Standards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dresses Quality Standards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shirts Quality Standards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blouse Quality Standards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clothing Alterations Quality Standards

In order to perform clothing alterations, you must have received specific training in each module of the Neweys Clothing Alterations training program. Once you have completed a module and the trainer has signed off that you are competent, then you are permitted to perform these alterations in store.

This section is simply a guide that recognises and identifies the standards for quality clothing construction that give a garment a professional, finished look. Use these as a guide when performing clothing alterations to ensure you achieve a professional finish.

 

Seams

When garment shaping and fitting require that two or more pieces of fabric must be joined, then a seam is used to affect that join. Examples of seams are plain seams, French, flat felled, lapped and serged.

  • The type of seam is appropriate to the type of fabric, the position of the seam, the projected care of the garment, quality, and design.
  • Thread colour matches or blends and is of an appropriate weight for the fabric.
  • Seams are stitched with the correct stitch length and balanced tension.
  • Seams are smooth, with no puckers or pulls, and should lie flat.
  • Seam allowances are trimmed evenly unless graded to reduce bulk.
  • The seam allowance is appropriate for the type of seam, seam finish, and garment design.
  • Intersecting seams are aligned.
  • Plaids and stripes match at the seams where possible.
  • Seam finishes are appropriate to the dictates of the seam type, fabric, projected garment care, use and quality.
  • Seams are well pressed, with no imprint on the outside (see PRESSING).

 

Seam Finishes

A seam finish is any technique that is used to make a seam neat, to prevent the seam allowance edges from ravelling and/or fraying, to prevent seam allowances from rolling, to prevent stretching and rippling in some seam allowances, and to give the inside of the garment a more pleasing appearance. Examples of seam finishes are pinked, overcast, Hong Kong, turned and stitched, and serged.

  • The seam finish is appropriate to the garment fabric, the garment design, the intended use of the garment, its quality, and garment care.
  • The finish is applied securely so that it remains in place during normal wear and care.
  • The finish does not add bulk to the seam.
  • The selected finish prevents the fabric from raveling, rolling, or stretching and contributes to the overall neatness of the garment.
  • The finishes’ binding or thread color is appropriate to the fashion fabric, unless used for decorative purposes.

 

Darts

A dart adds three-dimensional shape to a single section of cut fabric. Darts are used most frequently at locations of major body contours–bust, shoulders, waist/hips, elbows, for example–and in apparel that is fitted to the body.

  • Stitch length is appropriate to the fabric and to the expected stress at the stitched location.
  • The thread matches the apparel fabric.
  • No creases or pressing impressions are present on the face side of the garment.
  • No dimples or bubbles can be seen at the dart point.
  • Matching darts appear identical in size and angle.
  • The stitching line is smooth without puckers or folds.
  • Both ends of the dart are sufficiently secured.
  • Darts on heavy or bulky fabrics are slashed, trimmed or balanced, if needed, and pressed open.

 

Dart Equivalents

Gathers, pleats and tucks may be used as dart equivalents or as decorative details. They are created during the actual construction of the garment, as opposed to being applied to a completed garment or garment section.

  • Gathers are uniform and evenly distributed and stitched so as not to form pleats. Gathers are pressed flat only in the seam allowance. All visible basting threads are removed.
  • Tucks and pleats are composed of straight, even folds of fabric, uniform in width unless the design requires variation.
  • The desired grain line is maintained.
  • The stitching at the end of the pleat is secure.
  • Tucks and pleats are flat and pressed in one direction or as designed, except released tucks and un-pressed pleats.
  • Tucks and pleats are free of pressed-in ridges from hidden edges and marks from basting and pins.
  • Tucks and pleats hang straight and even with adequate fullness.

 

Interfacings

An interfacing is a special type of fabric applied directly to the facing or to the fashion fabric of a garment to give it body and shape.

  • The interfacing complements and reinforces the fashion fabric without overpowering it.
  • Care requirements of the interfacing are compatible with those of the garment fabric.
  • Interfacings have been properly preshrunk.
  • Interfaced seams and darts are treated to reduce bulk.
  • The interfacing does not show through to the right side of the garment.
  • Woven and knit interfacings are on the same grain as the garment areas to be interfaced, unless design or fabric warrant bias.
  • Interfacing is used in any areas requiring shape, body, support, and reinforcement, and where seam impressions may be a problem.
  • Fusible interfacings have been applied with the correct temperature and pressure to evenly and permanently bond them to the fashion fabric.
  • Interfacing is caught into the seams or hand tacked to prevent detaching.

 

Linings

A lining is a unit assembled in the same or similar silhouette as the garment or portion of the garment. It is applied to the inside of the garment to finish it and to hide the inner construction of the garment. The lining gives the garment a comfortable, luxurious feeling and lends ease in slipping the garment on and off. A lining protects the inner construction of the garment and prevents stretching.

  • The lining is on the same grain as the fashion fabric.
  • The lining fits smoothly inside the garment.
  • The lining provides a neat, clean inside finish.
  • The lining is constructed from a smooth, static-free fabric that complements the fashion fabric.
  • There is sufficient ease in the lining for body movement without straining the fashion fabric.
  • A partial lining used to maintain the shape of a garment extends far enough to accomplish this purpose.
  • On garments lined to the edge, the lining is not seen from the face side.
  • A free-hanging lining is linked to garment seams at the hemline where appropriate.
  • The edge finish is appropriate.

 

Pockets

Inseam Pockets – Inseam pockets occur at a structural seam on the garment, most commonly at a side seam of skirts and slacks, but may be placed in other seams as well.

  • Functional pockets are positioned at a location convenient for use.
  • Openings on functional pockets are large enough for the intended use.
  • The pocket depth is correct for the location. Pocket sacks do not extend past the hem or facing of the garment.
  • Openings that are angular or on the bias have been reinforced to prevent stretching.
  • Pocket openings are reinforced at the beginning and end.
  • Seams lie flat without pulling or puckering, and the raw edges have been finished as the garment’s quality, fabric and location demand.
  • Lining fabric, if used for the pocket bag, is durable, appropriate, and has the same care requirements as the garment’s fabric.
  • The body of the pocket is anchored when possible to maintain its position and to prevent sagging.
  • The edges of the pocket opening appear the same size, with no puckering or pulling on either side.
  • The pocket lining is recessed enough so it does not show during movement and while sitting.
  • The pocket is cut on appropriate grain, generally duplicating the garment’s grain line.

 

 

Edge Treatments

Bindings – A binding is a strip of fabric, usually bias, used to enclose the raw edges of a neckline or other areas of a garment. As it is visible on the right side of the garment as well as on the wrong side, it can be decorative as well as functional.

  • The width of the binding is even.
  • The binding is securely applied with the appropriate stitch length and no rippling.
  • The binding is suitable in weight, fiber content, care method, and style to the garment on which it is to be used.
  • All raw edges of the binding are concealed.
  • The binding fits the edge to which it is applied without stretching or pulling the neckline.
  • The comers are finished smoothly.
  • The binding, when joined to self, is smooth and not bulky.

 

Facings – A facing provides a smooth, inconspicuous finish for necklines, front openings, and other edges. Facings are categorized as:

 

Shaped – the facing is cut to fit the garment part to which it will be sewn, with grain positions identical or on the bias, and the finished width usually not more than three inches.

 

Bias -cut in rectangular strips with the bias of the fabric creating the necessary shaping during construction and pressing

 

Extended -cut onto a garment section, then folded rather than seamed to create the finished edge.

  • Facings lie smoothly with no ripples or puckers.
  • Facings are secured inconspicuously to the inside of the garment to prevent their rolling to the outside. The seam ditch is not visible on the outer edge of the garment.
  • The free edge of the Facing is finished appropriately to prevent raveling. Under stitching or topstitching serves as a means of securing the facing when necessary.
  • In garments made of thick, spongy fabric, the facings are cut from a lighter weight fabric in an appropriate color.
  • Facings in transparent or translucent fabrics are very narrow or stop at a design line of the garment.
  • Most faced areas are interfaced. Bias facings are the exception and are not interfaced. The extended facing on a cowl neckline is not interfaced, since that portion of the neckline is cut on the bias and is intended to drape softly
  • Comers, points, or bias neck edges are reinforced with stay stitching or stay tape.

 

Cuffs – A cuff is constructed of a fabric band that finishes and/or decorates the lower edge of the sleeve. A cuff is intentionally visible in the completed sleeve.

  • The cuff is interfaced for body and support. A rib stretch cuff is an exception.
  • The ends of open band cuffs are identical in size and shape and are finished neatly.
  • The edge of the cuff is smooth and flat with no seam ditches showing.
  • Any topstitching is even, straight, and in an appropriate stitch length.
  • The seam allowance on a closed cuff is not visible where it joins itself.
  • The inside of the cuff/sleeve seam is enclosed appropriately, according to garment design, fabric, and quality.

 

Waistbands – A waistband is an applied piece of fabric that is sewn to the garment at the fashion waistline.

  • The waistband is cut on the appropriate grain.
  • The garment is not stretched when the waistband is applied.
  • The application seam is smooth and even.
  • The waistband is smooth and flat.
  • Sufficient interfacing is used to prevent the waistband from distorting or rolling over on itself.
  • Facings of faced waistbands are constructed of appropriate material.
  • Both the overlap and the under lap are neatly finished and the comers are squared, unless otherwise designed.
  • The width of the waistband is even along its entire circumference, unless otherwise designed.
  • Belt loops or thread carriers are identical in construction and size, evenly spaced, and sufficient in number to keep a belt in place.
  • A waistband curtain, if used, is inconspicuously attached to the garment.
  • Waistline seams and top edges are matched in waistbands that are seamed at the centre back.
  • Any topstitching is even, straight, and of an appropriate stitch length.

 

Closures

Button and Decorative Snap Closures – Buttons and buttonholes are one of the most common methods used to join two pieces of a garment. In women’s clothing, buttons are placed on the left side of the opening and the buttonholes are placed on the right overlap; in men’s clothing, buttons are placed on the right side. The under lap and the overlap must be at least one-half the button diameter or snap width plus one-fourth of an inch beyond the center front or the closure seam line.

Buttons (including decorative snaps)

  • Buttons coordinate with the garment’s design, fabric and garment care.
  • Buttons are spaced appropriately for their size and location.
  • The fabric under the buttons is additionally reinforced when necessary.
  • The buttons are sew-n securely.
  • No loose threads hang from the buttons.
  • The buttons have a self or thread shank appropriate to the fabric’s thickness.

 

  • Buttonholes
    • The type of buttonhole is suitable for the garment’s design and fabric.
    • The buttons and the buttonholes are aligned so that the button rests within the top 118 inches of vertical buttonholes, and within 118 inches of the center front of horizontal buttonholes.
    • The buttonholes are securely stitched in thread that matches or decoratively contrasts with the fabric. Hand or machine stitching is regular and smooth in appearance, with no fraying or loose ends.
    • The buttonholes are large enough to allow the buttons to pass through easily and yet small enough to hold the garment closed.
    • The buttonholes are even in length, width, and equally spaced unless otherwise designed.
    • If bound, the buttonhole must have the following criteria:
    • The rectangle has perfectly square corners.
    • The rectangle’s length and width are determined by the button size and fabric weight.
    • Welts are even in width and meet exactly at the center of the opening.
    • The facing is securely fastened to the back of the buttonhole.
    • For pressing, see the description under the PRESSING section.

 

  • Snapped and Hooked Closures – Some varieties of snaps and hooks are used in concealed applications, while others are used in decorative as well as functional applications.
    • Fasteners are the correct size and location for the closure requirement. Sets are aligned and hooks are usually placed 118″ (3mm) from the edge of the overlap so the garment is secure and the closure lies flat.
    • Fasteners are attached securely and neatly.
    • Concealed applications of fasteners are inconspicuous.
    • Fasteners used in visible applications are suitable for the garment design and fabric.
    • Durable coverings (thread or fabric) are used where appropriate.
    • The garment is reinforced on the wrong side, usually with interfacing.

 

  • Zippered Closures
    • The zipper type and application are suitable for the garment’s quality, design, fabric and use.
    • The zipper length is adequate for ease in wear or use.
    • Any visible stitching is straight, even and the thread matches, unless otherwise designed.
    • The zipper is securely inserted into the garment at the intended position.
    • The zipper, when closed, is flat and smooth, free from puckering and does not buckle.
    • The zipper opening appears to be a continuation of the garment’s seam line.
    • Horizontal seams meet across the zipper opening.
    • Facings at the top of the zipper roll to the underside. Edges are smooth, even and flat.
    • The lapped zipper covers the stitching on the under lap so that the stitching is not visible.
    • The slot zipper is cantered. Welts on each side of the placket appear identical in size, shape and placement, as well as equidistant from the opening.
    • The zipper slides easily and does not catch.
    • Fabric patterns are matched appropriately.
    • The seam at the end of an invisible zipper is smooth and straight.

 

Hems & Hem Treatments

A variety of methods is used to finish the lower raw edge of a garment.

  • The hemline of the garment appears parallel to the floor during wear, unless the garment design indicates an uneven hemline.
  • The hem is even in depth and appropriate for the weight of the fabric and the style of the garment.
  • The hem is flat and smooth, with no pulling, rippling, or puckering.
  • The hem type is appropriate for the garment’s fabric, quality and style.
  • The hem finish is appropriate for the garment’s fabric, quality and the type of hem.
  • The stitch which attaches the hem is appropriate for the garment’s fabric, quality and style. Thread colour matches the garment, and is not visible on outside of the garment.
  • Excess bulk has been eliminated from the hem area, i.e. fullness is reduced, and enclosed seams are pressed open and graded.
  • Topstitched hems are evenly stitched with the appropriate thread and stitch length.
  • Blind stitching, fusing, and gluing (leather) are inconspicuous on the right side of the garment.
  • Hems at the garment’s opening(s) and vents are covered by the facing.
  • Hems in linings do not hang below the outer garment.
  • The stitch which attaches the hem in pleated hems catches the pleat crease.

 

Pressing

  • The garment surface is smooth and free from wrinkles.
  • The original appearance of the fabric has been maintained. It is:
    • free from over pressing or iron imprints
    • free from shine, scorching or melting
    • free from flattened nap or pile
    • free from imprints of construction details on the face of the garment
    • free from stretching or shrinking
    • free from water or mineral spots
  • Seams and darts are pressed smoothly on the stitching line; fabric does not fold over the stitching line or look bubbled.
  • Using shaped pads or boards, the shaping is pressed in where the garment will fit over body curves.